Changing Food… One Meal At A Time!
Autumn
Jan Fullwood Food Consultant
(aka JamJarJan)
NOTES FROM A CHAOTIC KITCHEN
Welcome to day to day life in a chaotic well used kitchen…..
A constantly evolving kitchen: always busy, full of cooking and creating (dinner, treats, mess) for work and for play, for family and friends.
Let me introduce myself and my family:
- A Food and Recipe Consultant who is ‘never knowingly under-catered’, I’ll whip up a five-minute muffin mix at a moment’s notice. I’m constantly creating, evaluating and eating, always cooking and learning something new.
- Long-suffering Hub who just wants a clutter-free kitchen (and longs for a bit of peace and quiet). Happiest in the garden.
- Eldest cheffie son and his patisserie chef girlfriend who cook catering quantities of delicious food at every opportunity for us to sample (hard job, but someone’s got to do it)
- Protein & carb obsessed younger son set for uni (cooking not his forte - self survival skills urgently required)
We all eat to live. Let me help you live to eat.
What's in Jan's Pan?
AUGUST 2025
August is like no other month, as the long summer stretches ahead full of promise. The roads around us fall quiet as the school sleeps for the summer and whole families go off radar as they drift off in turn in search of sunnier climes or a change of scenery. Workplaces turn into ghost towns, everyone covering for each other, as they each count the days until it's their turn to make a break for it.
Student son has been taking advantage of his (many) weeks home from uni with various pet sitting duties while people are away and gardening jobs. It seems gardening is a good little earner for a strong student with little or no other purpose (what are they paying their uni fees for exactly? They're never there). My August began with a uni reunion in Bath which triggered all manner of memories of our own student days from the depths of our minds. A group of BSc and BEd Home Ec students and Dress and Textiles descended on the Ivy in Milsom Street (I'm sure that was a high street bank back in our day) to reminisce and discover just how much Bath (and we) had changed since our time here in the early 80s. We may have lived amongst the Georgian grandeur, but there was no purpose built student accomodation complete with gym facilities and built in air fryer back in the day (take note, Student Son), and certainly no Bridgerton style living for us - one notorious landlord was mentioned on more than one occasion, well known for his damp and draughty properties in dingy basements. All character building stuff.
We passed by much loved nightclubs which have long since been condemned (I'm looking at you 'Bog' Island Club) and bemoaned the loss of the marvellous Moles Club which closed as recently as 2023 after 45 years in George Street. Many a great band started their careers there and we were lucky enough to witness many back in the early years.
That evening we experienced Bath from a different perspective, and arguably the best location in the City - staying on a riverboat down stream from the iconic Pulteney Bridge no less. Suitably central, surprisingly peaceful and an unbeatable view to wake up to.
August ended with the annual trip to the Sidmouth branch of the family when it was finally our turn to escape. An excuse to indulge in Devon pasties and ice cream by the seafront (watch out for greedy seagulls), the many delights of National Trust properties, involving the imperative visit to the cafe, and West Country pub meals. Not to mention the family favourite - breakfast at the Donkey Sanctuary.
Back home Cheffy son has made the most of the sunshine and cooked up epic BBQ spreads, while I've been mainly cooking fish cakes, ideal to have a stock in the freezer and serve up with a simple summer salad or green garden veg. I give you three versions - the most basic, core recipe using tinned fish; a 'level-up' version perfect for everyday family meals, and a cheffy version, with fresh poached salamon and an oozy white sauce filling made with the poaching liquid for a dinner party-worty dish.
There have been plenty of fruity bakes too, with plums, blackcurrants and juicy blackberries from the garden. My blackcurrant jam is made and stored, my cordial is bottled, and there's plenty in the fridge for instant access.
And then, suddenly, the summer is over and it's back to reality, out of this dream-like state. The schools slowly reawaken, work resumes in earnest and life returns to normal, whatever 'normal' is......
What's in Jan's Pan
Fish cakes
This month, I've mostly been playing with fish cake recipes. Student Son loved the recipe book I put together for him to take to uni last year but complained that each recipe required him to buy too many extra ingredients. Apparently more than one vegetable just isn’t an option on a student grant (hmmmm…) and generally one protein source would last him all week. Simple quick fixes combing carbs and protein are clearly key, so surely this could fit the bill?
Here I've put together 3 recipes. I’ve used salmon for the fish, but tuna, cod or haddock could be used if preferred. The simplest, ‘Core’ recipe uses tinned fish; ‘Level Up’ to a recipe which uses hot smoked salmon for everyday family meals with maximum flavour and minimum hassle, and finally an ultimate version to 'Go-Pro' using poached fresh salmon, taking tips from Cheffy son for a dinner-party-worthy recipe and incorporating a melting middle for something that requires a bit more effort but adds a 'wow-factor' dimension.
Molten fillings are all the rage in the shops, so I had fun developing this one, making different thickness of sauce using the fish poaching stock for the 'oozy centre'. Too thick and it won't flow out once cooked, so it seems that the best way to do this is to make a thinner consistency sauce then freeze it to make it easy to incorporate.
Another option could be to pop a couple of mini mozzarella balls in the middle. I trIed this, and the cheese does go stringy, but doesn't have the same level of 'ooze'. Worth it for a quicker fix though.
Pick your recipe and try for yourself, they can all be made in advance and chilled and all freeze well.
CORE RECIPE
STUDENT VERSION
A good basic recipe using tinned fish and mashed potato. Coat in flour, or dried breadcrumbs (homemade or shop bought), depending on which you have to hand.
Serves Makes 4, serves 2-4
450g potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-3 cm chunks
15-30g butter or 1-2 tbsp mayonnaise
1 x 200g tin salmon (or tuna if preferred), drained
2 spring onions, finely chopped2 tbsp flour or
golden breadcrumbs
4tbsp oil for frying
Cook the potatoes in a pan of salted water until softened,15-20mins
Drain and allow to steam and dry in a colander for 2-3mins.
Return the potatoes to the pan over a low heat. Mash the potatoes until smooth and dry, and add the butter or mayonnaise, stir into the potatoes and season well
Divide the mixture into 4 and shape into rounds, approximately 10 cm diameter by 2 cm deep. Wet hands may help here.
Put the flour or crumbs into a bowl or onto a plate and season, then dust all sides of the fishcakes
Chill until ready to cook for a minimum of 30 mins.
Cover the base of the frying pan with thin layer of oil.
Heat on a medium high heat t and fry both sides on a until crisp and golden brown and cooked through, for 3-4 mins each side, or spritz with oil and cook in the air fryer until golden and cooked through 10-15mins. Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot
Tips
· These can be frozen for up to 3 months. Put a square of baking parchment in between each to help to separate them easily and put into a freezer container
· Add in extra flavours if you wish, lemon zest or a squeeze of sriracha
· Use crushed crackers or cornflakes as an alternative to dried crumbs
LEVEL UP
HOME VERSION
Perfect for a weekday family meal family, using ready cooked hot smoked salmon and a pack of panko crumbs for extra crunch
Serves Makes 4, serves 2-4
450g potatoes, peeled and and cut into 2-3 cm chunks
15-30g butter or 1-2 tbsp mayonnaise
1 x 180g hot smoked cooked salmon fillets, skin removed and fish flaked
2-3 tbsp capers or finely diced gherkins (optional)
2tbsp chopped parsley
4 tbsp flour
1 egg beaten
75g panko breadcrumbs
4tbsp oil for frying
Follow the method above, but to coat in crumbs
put the flour, egg and crumbs into 3 separate shallow bowls.
dip the cakes into the flour, then transfer to the egg and brush all sides.
Carefully move to the bowl with the crumbs and carefully cover the sides and top to evenly coat then transfer to a a clean plate.
Chill until ready to cook for a minimum 30 mins
Cook as abaove
Tips
· use smoked mackerel or trout as alternatives to the salmon
· try different herbs to ring the changes – chives or tarragon work well
GO-PRO
CHEFFY VERSION
Poached salmon fishcakes with an oozy cheese and chive sauce centre coated with fresh breadcrumbs.
These take some planning in advance to make, as the filling needs to be frozen for a couple of hours to make it easier to incorporate. But they can be prepared in advance and chilled or frozen, to be fried off when required.
Serves Makes 4, serves 2-4
250ml milk
2 bay leaves
400g skinless salmon fillets
300g potatoes, peeled and and cut into 2-3 cm chunks
15-30g butter or 1-2 tbsp mayonnaise
Zest 1 lemon
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
For the sauce
15g butter
15g flour
1tsp English mustard powder
50g mature cheddar, grated
2tbsp chopped chives
For the crumb
4 tbsp flour
1 egg
100g fresh breadcrumbs (see tip below) or Panko crumbs
4tbsp oil for frying
Pour the milk into a medium frying pan with the bay leaves
Add the fish
Bring to a gentle simmer for 1-2mins, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside to gently cook the fish
Using a slotted spatula remove the fish and transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper. Remove as much excess moisture as possible. Remove and discard the bay leaves.
Cover and set aside for 10 mins while the potatoes cook.
Meanwhile, cook the potatoes in a pan of salted water until softened, 10-15mins
Drain in a colander and allow to steam for
2-3mins.
Return the potatoes to the pan over a low heat. Mash the potatoes until smooth and dry, and add the butter or mayonnaise. Remove from the heat,
Flake the drained fish and gently mix with the mashed potato.
Add the zest and parsley and season well.
Cover and chill until ready to assemble.
Make the sauce
Add the butter to the milk in the pan and whisk in the flour
Gradually bring to the boil, whisking all the time, then simmer to thicken
Add the cheese and stir to melt, then add the chives
Cool slightly then pour into a large hole ice cube tray or silicone muffin cases/tray to give 4 discs/cubes
Freeze for a minimum of 2 hours.
When ready to assemble, put the flour onto a plate and season with salt and pepper
Divide the mixture into 4 balls and flatten on the plate.
Place 1-2 cubes of sauce into the middle and bring the sides up to encase the sauce completely
Shape into 4 cakes and dust both sides with the flour.
Put the egg and crumbs into 2 separate shallow bowls or plates
Chef’s tip: strain the egg to give an even coating
Sit the cakes in the egg and brush egg over all sides
Use a slice to transfer to the crumbs and carefully coat all sides to cover evenly.
Transfer onto a clean plate
Pour enough oil into a frying pan to coat the base. Heat the oil over a medium heat and fry both sides for 4-5 mins until crisp and cooked through
To air fry, cook on 200C, 12-15mins
Serve straight away, the middle should flow out when cut to give an oozy saucy centre
TIPS
· Use a floury potato such as maris piper or king Edwards
· For home-made breadcrumbs, use dry or stale bread and blitz in a food processor.
· For speed, dry slices of bread in a low oven 140C/120C Fan/Gas 1 for around 10-15 minutes, cool then blitz
· If using metal muffin cases to make the sauce discs, line with non-stick baking parchment.
· If only smaller trays/cases are available, make 8 and use 2 per fishcake.
· Try putting a wedge of camembert in the centre, or a ball of mozzarella cheese if you don’t want to make the sauce.
What's in Jan's veg plot
The beans have gone bonkers in the intermittent rain and sun of late.
I‘ve had so many that I’ve been adding them to all manner of dishes. They are best picked quickly before they get too big and lightly steamed but tougher ones are good for a slow cooked ragu with the addition of our tiny homegrown tomatoes and a splash of wine - they lose their vibrant colour but it ensures they are soft and tender.
For a simple supper I sizzled up some diced chicken breast with red onion and chorizo then added a tin of butter beans in water, fresh tomatoes and sundried tomato paste and added some thinly sliced green beans for colour. I love a one pan ‘chuck- it-in‘ style dish and this was the perfect speedy supper served with focaccia.
I’ll blanch the rest and freeze them so we can continue to enjoy them once they’ve ‘bean’ and gone (sorry), but at the moment, they keep on coming.
What's on Jan's plate
Lots of memorable meals this month (as always, but food is my favourite way to spend my hard earned cash).
Firstly, a trip to the most recently opened Cafe Murano in Marylebone, Angela Hartnett's latest venue, for our Guld of Food Writers Awards review meeting where we were lucky to have the PDR FoC as long as we paid for our F&B. No, not Friends of the Constitution at a Product Development review - for those baffled by catering acronymns (me included), we had our Food & Beverages in the private dining room, which was offered Free of Charge. AlI can say is that it is very good to have contacts who are extremely connected in the catering trade. President of the GFW, Ruth Watson, pulled a few strings but mainly wanted to check out the competition to her Italian restaurant Watson and Walpole, in the Suffolk village of Framlington (now that is definitely on my list to visit). Her agnolotti and tiramisu need to be tasted. She tells me she quickly became au fait in the language of catering acronyms to survive a male dominated workplace, and also how she is amazed at how many people ask for freebies for charity fundraisers from restaurants who themselves are struggling to make a decent living yet 'they never ask solicitors or doctors'! We all agreed that the star of the show at Murano was the sea bass linguine. We loved the framed classic cook books that adorned the wall too - perhaps that's an idea for my many books....??
The set menu at the Ivy Brasserie in Bath was a suitably safe option for our recent gathering, especially when satisfying the need of a dozen pernickity Home Ec graduates. I had the classic crispy duck salad, followed by sea bass with smoked aubergine at the very respectable price of £20.95 for 2 courses, particularly as it included a celebratory glass of fizz.
The following day the two of us who stayed over left our house boat behind and walked along the tow path to Widcombe for brunch. I was lucky enough to live here back in the day - how I wish I'd kept my tiny attic flat on. The centre of Bath is rammed with tourists and overrun with stag and hen groups, so a little insider knowledge is invaluable when looking for somewhere off the well trodden tourist path. The A36 has been diverted since my days and Widcombe high street now has a village feel. Last time I visited we ate at the Widcombe Deli, but this time found that the Halfpenny had taken its place. We sat outside, away from the fumes of the cars of yesteryear, and enjoyed their comprehensive breakfast menu; a very naughty bubble and squeak with poached eggs, chorizo and hollandaise for me, and a lighter avocado, tomatoes, feta and poached eggs on focaccia for my friend.
The Deli in the meantime had moved into the Ram pub next door, has a branch in Larkhall and has also acquired the prestigious property in the Abbey Green, also known for its part as the Modiste dress shop which you will no doubt be familiar with if you are a fan of Bridgerton, where the buildings of Bath take centre role.
We walked breakfast off with a stroll along the Kennet and Avon Canal and watched the barges navigate the locks before heading back to the station for our fast train back to Paddington.
And can you believe we woke up to that view above?!
Top right Claverton Street, Widcombe
Middle right Cafe Murano’s sea bass linguine
Bottom right cafe Murano Marylebone
Bottom middle cafe Murano tiramisu
Bottom left The Halfpenny Widcombe
Whats in Jan’s Cake Pan
With lots of summer fruits to use I’ve been playing around with ideas to make the perfect shortbread crumble cake. I decided that a frangipan would hold it together well, and added ground almonds to a shortbread style base which doubles up as a crumble topping, adding some chopped almonds for extra crunch. It works particularly well with my homemade blackcurrant jam but any jam or compote would work. Add in some fresh fruit too if you’d like (I’m thinking blackberries, maybe - the ultimate free food). The end result is morishly melt in the mouth.
Blackcurrant almond shortcakes
Makes 12
For the shortcake
130g butter
170g plain flour
30g ground almonds
30g golden caster sugar
12 tsp (approx 120g) blackcurrant jam
For the frangipan
100g butter
100g golden caster sugar
2 eggs
100g ground almonds
to finish
30g chopped almonds
Preheat your oven to 180C/160C fan/Gas 4
Put all the ingredients for the shortcake into a food processor and whizz until it just starts to clump together.
Halve the mixture and put into 2 bowls. Divide the first half between a 12 hole deep muffin tin and press down firmly to form a solid base.
Put a generous tsp of jam on top in each muffin hole
To make the frangipane, put all the ingredients into the food processor (no need to wash it out) and whizz together until smooth.
Divide between the muffin holes to cover the jam.
Gently mix the chopped almonds into the remaining half of the shortcake, keeping it like a crumble mix. Scatter this on top of the frangipane for each cake.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 25-30mins until the frangipan is set and the crumble topping is golden.
Allow to cool, then carefully remove from the tin.
Enjoy with a cuppa ( and a dollop of cream or yoghurt if you’re feeling naughty - promise I won’t tell).
I’ve also made blackcurrant flapjacks with the pulp leftover from straining cordial layered in to the middle of my favourite flapjack recipe (Jen Bedloe’s 3-2-1 recipe for delicious. Magazine ).
Plus raspberry and white chocolate muffins adapted from an AEG recipe from back in the day using blueberries. Greek yoghurt is the secret ingredient here - it aids the rise and keeps the muffins moist, perfect every time whatever the fruit.
Put the kettle on please, someone!
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