Try Next Year
What was in Jan's Pan?
March
Welcome to March - a celebration of saints with St David and St Patrick waving leeks and shamrocks. But as Easter is late this year, Lent begins in March. This means that my favourite food themed day, Shrove Tuesday, falls on 4th March so I plan to eat pancakes aplenty all month long.
Everyone needs a good pancake recipe up their sleeve, so this month I've given you the basic, 'Core' recipe. If you wish to 'Level-Up' try a chocolate crepe stack cake as favoured by Student Son (anything with chocolate hazelnut spread is always a winner in his books), and once those recipes are under your belt you can 'Go-Pro' with classic Crepe Suzettes. Totally retro but perfect for showing off your cheffy skills.
In theory, pancakes are the easiest thing to give up for Lent (the treat is enhanced ten-fold if you only have them one day a year) but that's never going to happen in this house of pancake fanatics. Go on - get flipping!
Read on for pancake memories, nutty carrot and cauliflower salads from Jan's veg box, and quick easy chapatis from Jan's air fryer.
And raise a glass of Guinness on 17th March for me!
Food can conjure up so many memories - the smells and tastes that instantly take us back to our childhood, particularly 'treat' foods that you may only have once a year. Certainly that was the case with pancakes in our house back in the day. Happy memories of Mum making pints of pancake batter and Dad assigned as head chef for the day, standing over the stove frying and flipping, churning them out as my sister and I wolfed them down hot from the pan as fast as he could make them. Traditional lemon and sugar was always the topping of choice. Pancakes also conjure up memories of Little Chef service stations - we would always choose the pancake option, laden with butter and syrup, to help us along the way on our annual journeys to the West Country every summer. Happy days. Memories of my first trip to America in my 20's too - International House of Pancakes and Denny's, whole restaurants dedicated to my favourite foodstuff! I was in heaven, but soon found that having them on tap lessened the treat factor (soo much sugar - such huge portions).
Of course, it goes without saying that pancakes have been a big part of the boys' childhood too. If there is one thing that Student Son has learnt to do is to cook these treats, so he was designated pancake flipper for his uni mates this year. Typical student, he filled them with reduced-price chicken goujons served wrap style. Followed by American style pancakes for his fellow house-mates. He too was suitably stuffed.
He says he can't smell pancakes frying without instantly being taken back to the pancake days he had as a child too. We would always invite friends and cook savoury pancakes filled with cheese, ham and sweetcorn followed by sweet pancakes with chocolate and fruit, the day known forever after as Jancake Day (of course).
Pancake making for Cheffy Son is a doddle of course - he's used to making vast quantities of anything in record time, and he'll whip up a batch at a moments notice for a mid morning snack.
This year's pancake day was the day after Dad's birthday, I took him out for dinner at The three Horsehoes Laleham (our favourite local) so were pleased to see them on the menu and not miss out on the annual ritual. He claimed he was 29 again, or so he told the waitress, 'as a left hander who reads backwards'. She got the hint and they rewarded him with his own special platter, scribed with Happy Birthday across the plate in chocolate. It was good to have them made for me once again, and I'm sure dad felt the same as we reminisced over those pancake days of old.
Core Recipe - Basic Pancake Batter
Makes approx 8
125g plain flour
1 egg
300ml milk
Put the flour in a bowl and make a well in the middle.
Crack the egg into the centre and gradually whisk it in along with the milk.
Cover and set aside for at least 20 minutes (or overnight in the fridge). This allows the starch grains to swell and soften, and avoids lumps.
Heat your pan, 20cm makes a good sized pancake, and add a drizzle of oil.
Once hot, pour in just enough batter to coat the pan and allow it to cook and set for about a minute.
Once the edges start to lift, flip the pancake over and cook for a minute or until golden.
Tip onto a plate and keep warm, then repeat with the remaining batter. Don't worry if the first one's not a success - this one is chef's perks, practice makes perfect!
For this creation you will need to double your batter mix.
While the crepes cool, make a chocolate hazelnut spread (a certain well known brand could be used of course, but it's full of rubbish so I prefer to make my own)
Melt 100g milk or dark chocolate chips in a bowl over a pan of hot water, or in the microwave on high for a minute to melt. Stir in• 50g toasted hazelnuts, finely ground or chopped, and• 1-2tbsp double cream.
Spread between each pancake and stack it high!
Drizzle with more melted chocolate, hazelnuts and chocolate buttons. Serve generous wedges with cream or ice cream.
Ring the changes by mixing melted chocolate with peanut butter, or perhaps use lemon curd for layering and sprinkle with zest.
Crepe Suzettes
Retro Royalty
Melt 25g butter plus 1tbsp orange liqueur such as Cointreau or Grand Marnier and whisk into the basic recipe. Make your crepes.
Heat 125g each of butter and sugar in a large pan and cook until melted and syrupy. Add the juice and zest of an orange with 2tbsp of liqueur.
Fold the crepes into quarters and add them one at a time to the sauce, coating each well.
Now the fun part. Heat 4tbsp liqueur in a ladle or small pan. Pour it over the pancakes, stand well back and set it alight (no singed hair please!). Baste until the flames die down, then serve immediately with lashings of whipped cream.
Crepe Suzettes are classically orange flavoured, but why not try Limoncello for a St Clements style twist, or pineapple and rum sprinkled with coconut. Raid your drinks cabinet and let the flames fire your imagination!
Cauliflower, lamb's lettuce, carrots
Nutty carrot and cauliflower salad
I had a cavalry of carrots building up so I whipped up this quick salad using these and a couple of other ingredients from my veg box.
I roasted chunky roll-cut pieces of carrot then added some cauliflower florets to crisp and char. I was reminded of this particular cutting technique whilst looking for inspiration from fellow Guild of Food Writers member Ceri Jones' lovely vegetable book It Starts with Veg , which celebrates vegetables as the hero ingredient.
Cheffy Son learnt the roll-cut method when he worked at Soho's iconic Quo Vadis during his college training (he has been lucky enough to learn from some of the best chefs). Keen to show off his new skill he passed the method on to me (the benefits of having a professional chef in the family, there is always something new to learn). You cut the carrots on the diagonal, then roll the carrot 180 degrees and cut on the diagonal once again. Continue along the carrot in the same way to make chunky triangular pieces. Lots of surface area to cook, much more interesting than your bog standard carrot rings.
I was tempted to try Ceri's recipe for peanut sauce. It's a quick version of satay sauce, consisting of smooth peanut butter, maple syrup and soy sauce to make an incredibly moreish dressing. I drizzled this over the salad and sprinkled some roasted mixed nuts with dried olives (our latest favourite find from a certain German supermarket). It was surprisingly filling and satisfying for such a simple salad.
I've still got plenty of carrots, so I made an quick salad to go with the slow-roast lamb I cooked on Sunday to serve with the air-fryer flatbreads (see What's in Jan's air fryer).
Grate carrots, along with some fresh ginger, mix in some pumpkin seeds and dress with the juice of half an orange, a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses and a glug of EVO. This cut through the fatty lamb perfectly, and went well with hub's chapattis too (see What's in Jan's Airfyer).
Quick fire Chapatis
Hub decided that he wanted to test his chapatis in the air fryer so I let him loose. He usually fries them on the hob, then helps them to puff by cooking directly over the gas burner flame which gives extra flavour, but to be fair, these were a great success and possibly easier to make.
This recipe makes 4
160g chapati flour (we use Atta flour which we found in Sainsbury's but plain will work too)
125g water
1/2tsp salt
1 tsp oil
Bring together to a ball (no need to knead), cover and allow to rest for 30 minutes.
Divide the dough into 4 balls and roll out to a circle approx 10cm diameter
Preheat the air fryer (we found this made a difference and helped them puff up) then cook one at a time 240C for 3 minutes each until cooked through.
Spread with butter or ghee and serve warm.
I tasted Karobi's ghee at one of last year's Great Taste sessions and was instantly hooked. It deservedly received the highest accolade of 3 stars, justifiably so as it is not only delicious but also handmade in the Cotswold's. Try the ginger, turmeric or roasted garlic to add instant flavour. Delish.
Berut Bistrot
32 Paddington Street Marylebone W1U 4HE
Friend: ‘A friend of a friend has opened a new restaurant. They’re doing a soft launch. Do you fancy trying it out?’
Me: 'Do Brussels Sprout??? You know me, any excuse for a meal and a catch up - I'm in!'
So last Thursday evening we found ourselves wandering down Baker Street, seeking out Berut Bistrot, hidden down a small side road behind abandoned roadworks. Not knowing what to expect I checked the website which promised 'a celebration of Beirut , a city that endures, inspires and always finds a way to thrive. We can’t wait to share Lebanon’is bold flavours rich traditions and unshakeable soul with you.' Mmm, I love Lebanese, my mouth was already watering.
We turned up with a bottle of red and a bottle of white having been told it was BYO, but soon discovered that as it was Ramadan alcohol was strictly off the menu, so quickly hid those (booze? what booze?). Not to worry, the food was our main concern on a weekday night in London (I'm a cheap date these days).
The friend's friend's friend (are you keeping up??), the owner himself, welcomed us and sat us at a little table for two. There was also a small area around the bar where you can sit and eat casually - perfect for a lunchtime visit. We arrived at six and the restaurant soon filled up; busy and buzzing with a casual and relaxed atmosphere. He explained that the menu comprised mainly sharing dishes, which is right up my street, (purely professional interest here of course). This was his second restaurant opening, after Covid thwarted his first attempt, and we wished him the best of luck agreeing that 'footfall should improve as soon as the roadworks clear.'
The menu is divided into Dips, Salata, Skewers, Small plates, Bigger plates and Sides, We asked for his recommendations, and he suggested we had about five of the smaller dishes to share and soon our little table was struggling to support our spread. I'd happily have delved into every dish on the menu, so a return visit is a must.
The Baba Ganouj and red pepper dips were divine, and the Fattoush was fabulous - such a simple salad but sumac and pomegranate molasses propels it into another orbit. We tried the Makenek too - Lebanese sausage heavily spiced with tongue tingling cloves and nutmeg amongst other sweet spices, reminiscent of a savoury Christmas pudding. We loved the crispy Batata Harra, spicy saute potatoes, alongside the Aubergine fatte with chickpeas smothered in yoghurt and tahini and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. All washed down with a hot mint tea - we couldn't fit in the offer of complementary dessert.
The service was still in its early stages of development, I would say, probably training was still in process and we had to ask again for a few of our dishes that didn't materialise. They may also have been distracted by the Ramadan feast that they were preparing when they kindly asked us if we wouldn't mind leaving our table at 7:30pm. I’m not sure we ever got our mini pickles either, or perhaps we forgot to ask for them, but I would definitely go back to try them on my next visit along with all the other dishes we couldn't fit on our table (or in our stomachs), and recommend that you do so too whether for a feast or a light lunch.
Mad March hares come to mind when I think of the last month - it has been manic here, hence the lack of updates so far. No one warns you that when you have a Bereavement there is so much Admin. How does the loss of a loved one equate to so much paperwork when it is the last thing that you feel like doing? So apologies for the lack of fresh material for this month, but I really have been otherwise engaged with what a friend aptly calls 'sadmin'.
It's a shame, as there have been some lovely light moments to get me through. Judging for The Great Taste awards has been an absolute blessing for me. Two to three hour sessions of total focus, and a joyful day of interacting with like-minded people fascinating backgrounds in some facet of the good industry.
Also the excuse to meet up with close friends for coffee and consolation along my first visit to the garden museum. It was through fellow Guild member, Ceri Jones, who works in the learning facility there that I discovered this best kept secret. Next to Lambeth Palace and St Mary's church the museum has regular exhibitions, with not just a cafe once you've pottered round, but a full blown restaurant serving delicious dishes of the day. We had the set lunch - no choice, just the simplest freshest and most seasonal dishes. Excellent value, light and delicious. Book, or don't blame me if you can't get a table.
And finally, I’ve been living vicariously through student son as he maximises his study outing NZ, exploring at every opportunity. I don’t need to do the hikes as he has done the hard work for me as he climbs the next mountain and sends me his pictures of the latest Lord of the Rings inspired view. We are lucky enough to be able to go and join him to celebrate his birthday and our wedding anniversary (silver medal for us this year!!), so coffee culture of Wellington, here we come!
So I promise it will be back to normal service very soon, I have lots to look forward to and report back on, so watch this space... I will be back.
Great Taste Coordinators Workshop.
We always kick the month off with a Coordinator workshop in preparation for the Great Taste tastings from February through to June. This means a trip to Southwark Street on the outskirts of Borough Market. My first stop is usually at Maria's for a piping hot cappuccino to combat the cold of the outdoor seating in the middle of the market.
This year we had some fascinating speakers, AJ Sharp of Sharp Communications, and Eleanor Ford, author of four spice books including the 'Nutmeg Trail'. We are sometimes asked to taste and assess whole spices for the star awards and she shared her knowledge and expertise to help with descriptors when judging and recording comments. We were also blown away by her 'rice puddings of the world' map - who knew such a simple pudding varied from country to country with just subtle changes of spice, from a Jamaican version with allspice, rum and raisins to chocolate and dried salted fish in the Philippines!
AJ Sharp has a great overview of the business, and her presentation 'Opening minds, expanding palates', did exactly what it said on the tin. We talked about food trends and innovations and had the joy of tasting foods for the future: cheese tea or chocolate seaweed anyone? We sampled crunchy teriyaki crickets - reminiscent of prawns, and protein-rich, the teriyaki flavour made them no different from any other crunchy snack. Mushroom coffee is big everywhere too at the moment - reputed to help cognitive and immune functions as well as inflamation - a truly 'magic' ingredient. It certainly popped up again in various guises for the chai and infusions tasting I coordinated later in the month.
Part of the benefit of entering the Awards is to provide feedback to the suppliers to help them to develop their products and hopefully attain that revered set of 3 stars. This means that as Coordinators we need to write positive constructive comments and we're told that we should not write anything we wouldn't say to the producer's face, so Anna May, a seasoned judge and editor of the judges’ feedback, gave us an update on the best way to present the information. According to her, 58% of consumers recognise the Great Taste Logo and understand it represents trustworthy, quality products that deliver on flavour. Everywhere you look you can find the prestigious stars, and with the rigorous testing you can guarantee a quality product. There’s a phenomenal 14,500 products vying for stars this year so we’ve our work cut out. Bring on the tasting!
Sea Bass with sweet potato and vinegar peppers
One of my birthday treats was to see Moulin Rouge the musical (for the third time - it's a must see spectacular Spectacular, so see it if you Can Can Can). We went to the Hawksmoor in Air Street for their good value set lunch, 2 courses for £23. Despite its' reputation as a steak restaurant (their bone marrow gravy is a must), they do offer a fish dish on the menu, and that day we chose the hake with vinegar peppers and charred sweet potato. It was so good that I replicated it at home using sea bass fillets for a very easy weekend dinner treat for hub and I - suitably spectacular but minimum effort.
Sea bream or sea bass fillets take minutes to cook, and are readily available in supermarkets, or ask your friendly fishmonger to fillet the fish for you. My local, Clayton's fishmonger, sadly closed a good while back due to retirement, but there continues to be a regular stall on the market to keep us in fresh fish from Billingsgate.
The vinegar peppers are a form of peperonata, with soft sweet, stewed peppers. The addition of capers gives that salty acidity, and rather floral flavour that is not to everyone's taste but adds piquancy and lifts the soft sweet peppers along with a sharpness from the vinegar.
Halve a large sweet potato and bake at 220C/200Cfan/Gas 7 for 15-20mins until softened.
Meanwhile, cook 1 yellow and 1 red sliced pepper and 1 sliced onion with a clove or 2 of garlic in a good splash of olive oil over a medium heat for 5-10mins - you want to soften but not colour them.
Add in the capers and a tablespoon of white wine vinegar, then pop the lid on and let the mixture steam and soften allowing the flavours to mingle for a further 5-10 minutes.
When almost ready to eat, heat a splash of oil in your frying pan on high heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Add the fillets to the pan skin-side down and leave to cook for 3-4 mins. Once the skin is crisp and golden, carefully turn and cook the flesh for another 1-2 mins until the flesh is cooked through.
Heat a dry pan or griddle pan until hot and char the cut surface of the sweet potato to colour, then serve with the peppers alongside the fish with some steamed kale sprinkled with toasted almonds.
As Harold Zidler would say - everything's going so well!!!
EASIEST EVER RED PEPPER & LENTIL SOUP
with leftover bread croutons
Serves 2-4
Makes approx 1 litre
Prep 10mins
Cook 10-20 mins
1 x 390g tin lentils in water
1 large or 2 small red peppers, halved, deseeded and chopped into bite-sized pieces
4 medium fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped
400ml water or vegetable stock
For the croutons
a drizzle of oil
any leftover bread, roughly torn into cubes
· Tip the contents of the tin, the lentils and their water, into a medium-sized pan
· Add the peppers and tomatoes to the pan
· Pour over the water or stock (fill the empty tin to the top to measure 400ml )
· Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10-15 minutes, until the pepper has softened and the tomato breaks down
· Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add any other flavourings here if you have them (see tips below)
· Serve it chunky, or lightly mash everything together with a fork to thicken the soup. If you have a hand blender or processor you can blend it until it is smooth.
· To make the croutons heat the oil in a pan over a medium-high heat. Add the cubes of bread and fry until crisp and golden
· Serve with the hot soup straight away.
The soup will keep for a day in the fridge and can be reheated.
Recipe Tips
· If you don’t have any stock cubes a teaspoon of Marmite adds extra flavour
· Add a tablespoon of tomato puree or tomato ketchup for extra flavour if you have it
· Use a tin of chopped tomatoes instead of the fresh tomatoes if you prefer
· If you have dried red lentils use 150g and cook in 525ml liquid with the tomatoes and pepper for 15-20 minutes until cooked through
· Sprinkle over some herbs or sliced spring onions if you have them
· If you have a toaster or grill, use this to brown slices of bread then cut or tear into cubes
· Alternatively, cut a crusty baguette into cubes and drop straight into the soup